Posts tagged “potentilla

New Pot for Potentilla fruiticosa

Quite a flamboyant choice. Perhaps too flamboyant? Well, it technically is a flowering tree… although it certainly doesn’t carry that presence.

Regardless, I find it a fun change.

New pot by Heian Kosen

New pot by Heian Kosen

 

Old Yamaaki pot. This pot couldn't handle the winter and developed some hairline cracks.

Old Yamaaki pot. This pot couldn’t handle the winter and developed some hairline cracks.


Some More Fall and Winter Images

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Tamarack

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American Beech (Fagus grandifolia). This species has stunning white-silver bark but it certainly isn’t the best beech for bonsai cultivation. This trio was thrown together for a demo in the spring. Not exactly a showstopper buy it is somewhat of a novelty in my garden. Needs a couple more trees and some adjustments.

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Tamarack

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Siberian Elm

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Potentilla. Not exactly known for their fall colour but this caught my eye as I was getting it ready for winter storage.

 

 


Potentilla fruticosa

This Potentilla is as fragile as a stained glass window and parts of it literally crumble away every time I work on it. It has undergone some pretty radical changes since I acquired it in 2011, and certainly does not look like the tree I initially envisioned it would become when I bought it. If I could give one piece of advice to anyone who wants to work with Potentilla – especially a deadwood specimen – I would say keep the trunk as clean and dry as possible. They are extremely susceptible to rot. Brush it, lime sulfur it, treat it with wood hardener, remove dead bark… all that good stuff is essential. 

The main things I did this year were to remove the last of the rotting parts, soak every piece of deadwood in lime sulfur then wood hardener, and compact the crown. I also completely redesigned the branch structure such that it is much more simple and “bonsai like”. This is contrary to the wayward, random nature in which Potentilla grow. I’m not saying the current image is better than some of the earlier ones. Certainly some incredible deadwood features have been lost.

Next step is to find the right pot, which certainly won’t be easy. I figure this tree still has a couple years of life before it returns to the dust from whence it came.

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The crown still needs a bit of filling out, but that won’t take long.

Earliest

This is the earliest image I have of the tree. I have no idea of the dates, but presumably the top left shows the tree soon after collection, while the other is the pinnacle of the tree’s development under its previous owner.

 


Tired Old Potentilla fruticosa

The potentilla that is the subject of this post was collected about 10 years ago by a friend of mine. I have admired this tree for some time, as potentilla’s of this size and drama are quite rare. When I had the opportunity to buy it for a reasonable price last year, I didn’t hesitate!

Potentilla fruiticosa yamadori

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However, this tree has some serious issues and serves to illustrate some limitations of potentilla for bonsai. In a recent post, I said that potentilla are one of my favourite species. They are certainly not perfect, however. Many people will refer to the limited longevity of potentilla. While they are hard to kill, their weedy growth habit is subject to dieback. Their biggest issue, however, is wood rot. This tree is a perfect example of the issues that arise with potentilla over time.

When designing potentilla bonsai as a deadwood species, you must be very conscious of the soft wood. It is nowhere nearly as robust as the deadwood of other deadwood species such as Thuja and Juniperus, and requires extra care. This means treating at least once a year with a penetrating wood hardener, and keeping the deadwood clean and dry. This is the product I like to use.

These techniques were not applied to this potentilla over the last decade, and as a result it has lost much of its structural integrity as a result of rot. Some of the fine jins near the base of the tree also crumbled away when I first laid hands on the tree last summer. The tree is literally falling apart. To make things worse, was planted in a very mucky organic soil mix which takes a long time to dry out.

The purpose of this spring work was mainly to take steps to minimize the advancement of the rot by doing the following:

  • Remove as much of the rotted wood as possible
  • Bareroot the tree and replace the soil with a coarse inorganic mix
  • Plant the tree more upright so that the deadwood is far away from the soil surface
  • Treat with limesulfur, then wood hardener

Crevices such as this are highly at risk of rot, especially if they are not kept clean and dry.

This organic soil mix holds far too much water. This rotted the jins that (used to) lay on the surface and also creates too much humidity for the deadwood that lies above the soil. It is worth noting, however, that the tree grows fine in this soil. Potentilla will grow well in almost anything!

The video clip below shows the extent to which the rot has compromised the structural integrity of the tree.

 

This is the new pot. It is a yamaaki pot with some signs of age. It is far from ideal, but I think it is a slight improvement on the current pot. I think this tree is ideally suited to a crescent stone, but I have not been able to find the right one yet!

After much struggling, I decided to break the pot. The unusual shape made it very hard to get the tree out and, given how fragile the tree has become, I did not want to pry on it too hard. This pot was made by the previous owner and he warned me that I might have to break it - sorry! :)

Barerooted with the hose and trimmed. You can see that the root system is strong despite the difficulties the tree has presented to the bonsai design.

The tree is so "floppy" that it had to be tied to itself in order to achieve the desired angle. This guy wire is hidden at the back of the tree and can be adjusted if needed.

Thats it for now. Much cleaning and wood preservation still needs to be done, but I think that the deadwood is much safer now than it was before.

The back of the tree is quite interesting as well. As the structure of this tree continues to deteriorate, I am sure that I will have to keep other design possibilities in mind.


Twisty Potentilla Clean Up

Potentilla fruticosa (Shrubby Cinquefoil) is one of my favorite species for shohin bonsai. In rocky northern regions, interesting specimens are easy to find which can be yanked out of the ground like turnips with a nearly 100% success rate. They are not a particularly common subject, but can still be found in bonsai gardens in most temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. I’ve seen amazing specimens coming out of North America, Europe, and Japan.

This is one of several small potentilla I collected last spring. In the proper soil they will quickly develop a fibrous root system and are almost always ready for rootwork the following year. Unfortunately (like junipers) collected potentilla may stubbornly hang on to a few long thick roots that can be difficult to chase back. Cutting back roots has to be done with great care because the compartmentalized nature of their growth can lead to dieback of live veins that are critical to the design of the bonsai.

I collected this tree because while crawling around in the mud I caught a glimpse of a twisting trunk hiding beyond the weeds and flakey bark. The initial clean up is one of the most important steps with collected potentilla, because you never really know what you have until you remove the bark and punky wood.

So here we are, nearly one year after collection, and I finally get to see what I brought home with me!

This shaggy mess is typical for collected potentilla. The paper-like bark hides the most interesting features of the tree.

It seems that there is some potential with this little tree, but it is impossible to tell until further cleaning is completed and the nebari is exposed.

The flakey bark peels away easily with tweezers or using your fingers. It is also necessary to scrape and dig in the many crevices of the tree, where dead bark becomes trapped and rots between the fusing stems.

Once the bark is removed, the dancing nature of the trunk becomes clear. It is also clear that this tree is the result of several stems which have fused together at the base. The cleaning process is not nearly complete. Getting all the old crap out of the crevices takes lots of time and patience, and will probably take another couple of lazy summer afternoon sessions of picking and scraping. Nevertheless, the work done here is sufficient to map out the design.

The next step for this tree will be rootwork in the next few days. If the root system does not need major operations, it will grow strongly and I should be able to cut it back hard in the late spring or early summer. Potentilla backbud profusely and reliably, but they need to be cut back quite ruthelessly. After that, the deadwood work will come. I intend to reduce the live veins to emphasize the twists in the trunk.

It is worth noting that potentilla are ridiculously hardy, and I find they are always the first species to wake up in the spring. Some of mine are already leafing out, 2 weeks earlier than normal due to the mild winter we experienced. I usually repot them when the leaves just begin to emerge, although this is definitely not the only time they can be repotted.

On to the next one!